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Converting cattle pellets. All the info you need to homebrew.

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  • Converting cattle pellets. All the info you need to homebrew.

    Several people on the boards and PMs have been asking lately about not having access to gear, ether because of lack of funds or source. No one can help you with the first and given the political climate no one is likely to help you with the second one. This leaves you with several options to legally (or semi-legally) obtain gear. Lets just forget about the prohormones here and go to the good stuff.

    Cattle implants are really the only practical legal source of gear that I know. There are some 30 types of different implants of witch 2 are of any real concern to us. The first is Finaplix-H witch is a form of trenbolone acetate pellets containing 20mg a peace, 10 pellets to a dose and 10 doses to a cart, 10 carts to a box. (That works out to 2grams of trenbolone acetate per cart or 20grams per box, you can buy it by the cart if you look around.) The second one is Synovex-H with has 20 mg estradiol benzoate and 200mg testosterone propionate. The problem with this one is the estradiol benzoate. It MUST be removed before giving it to any animal that you don’t want to compete in a wet-T contest. This is covered in the links provided.

    I don't recommend the conversion kits because they are expensive for what you get. Get your chemical supplies from www.lemelange.com (chemicals are cheap and good quality) and your glassware and filters from getpinz (gearbox is probably the best in the biz but are still running behind I believe at the time I write this)

    This is by far my preferred method of making fina from pellets: http://www.elitefitness.com/members/...stal_fina.html
    For the Synovex-H to testosterone no ester (base):
    http://anabolicminds.com/forum/showt...391#post127391
    For the Synovex-H to testosterone propionate (a bit steep for my taste)
    http://www.eagleresearch.biz/

    A couple of notes on the above links. If you are making testosterone no ester (base) then I would repeat the step of using the lye, wash it twice in other words. You don’t lose that much more and it doesn’t take that long. Well worth the peace of mind. Also they describe ether adding the water very slowly or putting a small hole in container to help form big easy to filter crystals. Another method (Notacow’s) is to pre freeze the distilled water and allow it to melt into the product. This one works very well.

    Needed chemicals
    Benzyl Alcohol, 1 quart $12.50 (this will last you forever, ask M really nice and she might sell you half a quart)
    Benzyl Benzoate 1/2 quart $10.00
    Cottonseed Oil 1/2 quart $12.50 (or grapeseed or sesame seed oil from the store works just as well)
    3 bottles of heat at Wally world $2.25
    1 Bottle Red Devil Lye also at Wally world $4.35
    1 gallon of distilled water from (Guess ware) Wally world $0.59

    Glassware:
    Whatman, PVDF Membrane, .20u $18.00 for 3 of them (one spare)
    3 50 ML sterile glass vial $7.50
    *5cc syringes 25 count 7.50 (enough for 25 batches, this is optional as you can use the 3cc ones, I just prefer 5cc)
    Everything else you should have around the house.

    Total cost of chemicals: $42.19 not including shipping
    Total cost of glassware: $33.00.
    Total cost of homebrew supplies without kits: $75.19
    Total costs of kits (sciencesupply s and f types kits) +spare filter $113.00
    Total cost of kits (research kits (universal powder plus Eagle Research) and f type kit): $104.99 (no spare filter)
    And I could go on. The only kit I know for sure that renders testosterone propionate is Eagle Research and there solution is $35 for 5 carts worth or $60 for a box worth.

    The difference here for the fina and test is 1. The product (fina) is better using NAC method. 2. It is much cheaper per cycle for and especially after the first one. The next time around (and there will be a next time around, I have never talked to anybody that did "just one cycle") as all you have to get is a new filters and vials. Or look at it this way, it is $230 for a cycles worth of low quality fina with testosterone propionate (maybe) using a kit with and for this and every time after or $195.19 for high quality fina and test base the first time along with all the homebrew supplies (chemical) you will need for years and $137 every time after for a long time. If you want testosterone propionate then just buy the solution from Eagle Research. If you had access to those types of chemicals you wouldn’t need to be doing all of this.

    2 carts of Finaplex-H about $70
    5 carts Synovex-H is $50
    Don’t forget the darts! G-Spot Special #2 $21.75, 50 darts with 100 needles plus alcohol pads
    All the above is with no shipping coast include

    Another reason to do it this way (without kits) is that you can make pro fina very easily given that you have everything in powder form. If you need detailed instructions on the proper way to make gear from powder with pictures then go here: http://www.massmonsterz.com/forum/sh...ghlight=test+e
    75mg prop/fina is easily made:

    For 50ml of pro fina:
    3.75 grams of trenbolone acetate
    3.75 grams of testosterone propionate
    1.5ml of Benzyl Alcohol
    5ml of Benzyl Benzoate
    about 36ml of oil of your choice

    For 50ml of pro fina made with test base (Warning, have NOT done this myself, I was told that it worked and can see no reason why it shouldn’t but haven’t done. Remember the adage about free advice)
    For 50ml of pro fina:
    3.75 grams of trenbolone acetate
    3.75 grams of testosterone no ester
    2.5ml of Benzyl Alcohol
    7.5ml of Benzyl Benzoate
    about 36ml of oil of your choice
    For both the above first mix the solvents together in a glass bottle of your choice Then dissolve the test first (follow the order here, will make life easier). Once you have done that (may have to heat) then add your trenbolone acetate (may need a little more heat). Once you have a nice clear solution you then add all but about 10ml of your oil. Filter and use the last 10ml to fill to volume.

    For 20ml of fina at 200mg/ml (this is a bit stiff):
    4 grams of trenbolone acetate
    1ml of Benzyl Alcohol
    3ml of Benzyl Benzoate
    about 13ml of oil of your choice

    For 20ml of fina at 100mg/ml:
    2 grams of trenbolone acetate
    .6ml of Benzyl Alcohol
    2ml of Benzyl Benzoate
    about 16ml of oil of your choice

    For 20ml of test prop at 100mg/ml (don’t go over this as it will hurt):
    2 grams of testosterone propionate
    .6ml of Benzyl Alcohol
    2.4ml of Benzyl Benzoate
    about 15 to 16ml of oil of your choice

    For 20ml of test prop at75 mg/ml :
    1.5 grams of testosterone propionate
    .6ml of Benzyl Alcohol
    2ml of Benzyl Benzoate
    about 16ml of oil of your choice

    For 20ml of test base at75 mg/ml (don’t go over this as it will hurt):
    1.5 grams of testosterone no ester
    1ml of Benzyl Alcohol
    3ml of Benzyl Benzoate
    about 15ml of oil of your choice

    For 20ml of test base at 50mg/ml:
    1gram of testosterone no ester
    .6ml of Benzyl Alcohol
    2.4ml of Benzyl Benzoate
    about 17ml of oil of your choice
    Last edited by Skyefire; 12-14-05, 10:31 PM.

  • #2
    What?

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    • #3
      What what? not sure what your asking

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      • #4
        Just sarcasim since your way smarter than me. It's all greek to me.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Shibby
          Just sarcasim since your way smarter than me. It's all greek to me.
          Thanks bro but as you can see from the links most of it is other peoples work. I just compiled it in one post.

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          • #6
            excellent excellent post brother. For newbies this should be a sticky on other boards as well, LOL. Of course I only use powders now but nonetheless as excellent post.

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            • #7
              Very good post. Here's one tip that I've seen many confused on. The "painter's cap" discussed in many of the instructions for use as a filter, is literally a hat, not a dust mask. Although I know dust masks have been used as well.

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              • #8
                guys, when i added the sodium hydroxide i got a yellow like precipitate, is this normal and will it disapate when i add the water

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