Converting the new Revalor 200 into Tren Ace

[DirtyFinger]

Revalor process.

I wanted to post this so people have an idea at least on how to make it. If you've made syno into prop, then it's same process pretty much. If you have NO PATIENCE, then step away from the making process; you will fail at it:D

I know it looks hard to do(and it is at first IMO), but once you've done it a few times(or over 100 times), it will be easy stuff.

If you have any questions, post them here.

Step #4 and #5 is IMO where everyone fucks up due to no patience.

Thanks for the pics. This helps a lot; screwed up two carts on my first run. When I went to filter and rinse, it looked like globs of white glue. How much water are you using to drip to form the crystals? From the pics looks like about 8 oz or so.
This is the plan for next time:
2 carts revalor 200 2unit kit with ester solution.
Dissolve pellets
Syringe filter instead of coffee filter
Add solution and let sit for 1 hour
Drip 8 oz of distilled water into solution over 30 mins in refrigerator and let sit for another 30 min in refrigerator
Filter with painter’s cap and rinse with 2 gallons of distilled water
Let dry
Am I close this time? Any help is appreciated…

[rado]

I know this has been beaten into the ground and Im new to this so any advice will help. I just did my first conversion as an experiment with one cart of revo 200. I did it before reading all this and I apparently made every possible mistake. I didnt use a kit, I bought everything separately. I used HEET and made a solubilizer made from 4g of NaOH and 100ml of water. When I mixed in NaOH H2O mix it instantly crystallized, I let it sit for an hour anyway and then mixed another 500ml of water in. I filtered that solution a couple times but it seemed to get all the crystals out the first time around. I used a different filter the second time and didnt seem to get anything out of it. I used about 1-1.5 gallons of water to filter it but I almost feel like I lost some yield when I filtered it. I did also bake it at the lowest possible temp which was about 150. I ended up with exactly 1g, which I should've had closer to 2. Here's a pic of what it ended up looking like. Aside from the obvious, where did I go wrong? I really prefer to do things as DIY as possible mostly for knowledge's sake. Ill probably buy a kit and try it again to not waste any more money but would like any info possible to help next time I want to do it the most cost effective way. Much appreciated guys.

I have no clue wtf that is or how that happened; that sucks.

I really don't understand why people are not ordering kits or not being able to find a good reliable company who has them; GOOGLE it.

My GUESS is that you ruined it when you used the HEET. Either not enough or too much. As I've mentioned before. I'm far from a chemist nor do I like science; I learned my process through tons of reading stuff from the boards and experimenting more than enough to have made the process, simple as apple pie.

I'm NEW to this board(But I have been doing synovex-H and Fina conversions since 1999... up until a couple years back... raws are far better(easier too, but also better.. if you have top notch raws))

OP, Your 'method' is right on the money except for one detail...(I'll hold off on that detail for now, because I want to make sure that I'm understanding you clearly before I say that this detail is 'off'... because I could have missed it somewhere in the post... You obviously know what you are doing!! and your finished product looks GREAT!!!)
I'll also add this little piece of info... I was a chem major in college(was actually planning on going into pharmaceutical research... and decided, for my own ethical reasons, that I didn't want to be associated with the scum that is Big Pharma!!!) I did, however, go through the schooling, and have a VERY thorough educational background in chem, as well as Real World chem experience(MANY years!)

That being said,(and, if you would like to pm me regarding this, feel free... I want to clear this up in my mind, and if it is as I'm thinking, I would like to clear it up for you as well... there's far more potential than what you are reaping from this conversion...)

The 'estro remover', explain to me what you are doing with this, in order to remove the estradiol from the solution of tren ace/estradiol, and solvents.. The HEET method is 'partial crystallization'(using the cold distilled water.. as you have shown you have a full grasp on... even though you aren't using the HEET method). Is that also how you are using the 'estro remover'?(The same way as is done in the HEET method.... only, with 'estro remover' instead?)(this is where I missed something you had written...), if so, how many times are you doing the partial crystallization?
Also, how are you 'harvesting' the tren ace once you have done the crystallization?(I ask this because it tends to be VERY 'sticky' and is nearly impossible to get it off the glassware to a high enough degree, that you aren't losing a significant amount of your tren.

OP, if you would clear me up on those questions I would greatly appreciate it.... I think that, unless I missed something completely, in your write up, it's possible for you to get a much better yield, as well as purity of product(meaning tren ace... without ANY estradiol still in it)

Not to be an ass man, but I'm not going to explain myself AGAIN when I have clearly posted hundreds(literally)of times on how exactly to convert reva.

Since you have so much to share, why don't you post it in this thread for others to read:) Everyone seems to have a couple of methods on how this process should be done. I know one way, you seem to know another way; so post away.

If kits ever become obsolete, then I will be forced to make my own solution(s). Until that millennium comes, I'm alright:D

And btw;

If you still can't understand wtf I've posted, don't know what to tell you.

[overburdened]

I'm NEW to this board(But I have been doing synovex-H and Fina conversions since 1999... up until a couple years back... raws are far better(easier too, but also better.. if you have top notch raws))

OP, Your 'method' is right on the money except for one detail...(I'll hold off on that detail for now, because I want to make sure that I'm understanding you clearly before I say that this detail is 'off'... because I could have missed it somewhere in the post... You obviously know what you are doing!! and your finished product looks GREAT!!!)
I'll also add this little piece of info... I was a chem major in college(was actually planning on going into pharmaceutical research... and decided, for my own ethical reasons, that I didn't want to be associated with the scum that is Big Pharma!!!) I did, however, go through the schooling, and have a VERY thorough educational background in chem, as well as Real World chem experience(MANY years!)

That being said,(and, if you would like to pm me regarding this, feel free... I want to clear this up in my mind, and if it is as I'm thinking, I would like to clear it up for you as well... there's far more potential than what you are reaping from this conversion...)

The 'estro remover', explain to me what you are doing with this, in order to remove the estradiol from the solution of tren ace/estradiol, and solvents.. The HEET method is 'partial crystallization'(using the cold distilled water.. as you have shown you have a full grasp on... even though you aren't using the HEET method). Is that also how you are using the 'estro remover'?(The same way as is done in the HEET method.... only, with 'estro remover' instead?)(this is where I missed something you had written...), if so, how many times are you doing the partial crystallization?
Also, how are you 'harvesting' the tren ace once you have done the crystallization?(I ask this because it tends to be VERY 'sticky' and is nearly impossible to get it off the glassware to a high enough degree, that you aren't losing a significant amount of your tren.

OP, if you would clear me up on those questions I would greatly appreciate it.... I think that, unless I missed something completely, in your write up, it's possible for you to get a much better yield, as well as purity of product(meaning tren ace... without ANY estradiol still in it)

[sirus1987]

I know this has been beaten into the ground and Im new to this so any advice will help. I just did my first conversion as an experiment with one cart of revo 200. I did it before reading all this and I apparently made every possible mistake. I didnt use a kit, I bought everything separately. I used HEET and made a solubilizer made from 4g of NaOH and 100ml of water. When I mixed in NaOH H2O mix it instantly crystallized, I let it sit for an hour anyway and then mixed another 500ml of water in. I filtered that solution a couple times but it seemed to get all the crystals out the first time around. I used a different filter the second time and didnt seem to get anything out of it. I used about 1-1.5 gallons of water to filter it but I almost feel like I lost some yield when I filtered it. I did also bake it at the lowest possible temp which was about 150. I ended up with exactly 1g, which I should've had closer to 2. Here's a pic of what it ended up looking like. Aside from the obvious, where did I go wrong? I really prefer to do things as DIY as possible mostly for knowledge's sake. Ill probably buy a kit and try it again to not waste any more money but would like any info possible to help next time I want to do it the most cost effective way. Much appreciated guys.

[rado]

Might have to give this a shot one day... Fina was easy as could be, I always stayed away from syno cause I didn't have the patience to mess with it and for my time and money i always thought it cheaper just to buy prop. But now that fina-h is out i may have to give it a shot.


Really good info in this post!

It's cheaper to make prop from syno. Been there done that.


Not to mention, you know what's in the bottle. That to me has no price.

[Lmg2701]

Might have to give this a shot one day... Fina was easy as could be, I always stayed away from syno cause I didn't have the patience to mess with it and for my time and money i always thought it cheaper just to buy prop. But now that fina-h is out i may have to give it a shot.


Really good info in this post!

[rado]

not that it matters anymore but for a regular fina kit you used coffee filter step with dissolved solution and oil mix? back to revalor kit though since thats what is important right now--after (whenever) i finally get powder from doing the washing and fridge method etc and end up with nothing but flaky powder stuck to the coffee filter im asking what to do next. Simply add the powder to oil bottle and mix and then filter into sterile pressurized vial?

I appreciate all the info and help thus far and im doing my best to not get frustrated but its difficult especially since Ive done SO MANY REGULAR FINA conversions with NO issues what so ever and im pissed at myself for wasting two karts when I should have attempted 1 to start. But since that Top Gun website is complete trash with its incomplete kits and inaccurate measurements which i believe played a big role in why I my shit would NOT turn into powder even after letting it sit for 4 whole days to dry.

I've never used the coffee filter; never. I told you that I even filter the tren ace gunk. It takes a shitload of time and honestly, quite a pain. I enjoy it and knowing I'm doing everything I can to save my tren:)

I WILL SAY THIS ONE MORE TIME BRO....FINA CONVERSION FROM KARTS, WHICH IS TREN ACE(FINAPLIX).....IS NOT THE SAME AS CONVERTING SYNOVEX(WHICH IS PROP) OR REVALOR 200(ONCE DONE CORRECTLY, YOU HAVE TREN ACE).

Ok done with rant.

I also don't use the fridge method and I'm almost certain I've posted I don't. The reason for the fridge is to harden up the residue with little to no humidity, as opposed to sitting out in room temp. The fridge typically makes a nice clean cold dry powder; I just don't buy into that. Unless you live in a house or a room that has no central AC or even an AC unit and you don't keep all hot and shitty, you will be fine with room temp dry, but takes longer.

[STSZ06vette]

not that it matters anymore but for a regular fina kit you used coffee filter step with dissolved solution and oil mix? back to revalor kit though since thats what is important right now--after (whenever) i finally get powder from doing the washing and fridge method etc and end up with nothing but flaky powder stuck to the coffee filter im asking what to do next. Simply add the powder to oil bottle and mix and then filter into sterile pressurized vial?

I appreciate all the info and help thus far and im doing my best to not get frustrated but its difficult especially since Ive done SO MANY REGULAR FINA conversions with NO issues what so ever and im pissed at myself for wasting two karts when I should have attempted 1 to start. But since that Top Gun website is complete trash with its incomplete kits and inaccurate measurements which i believe played a big role in why I my shit would NOT turn into powder even after letting it sit for 4 whole days to dry.

[rado]

Anyone know if the dissolving solution is a mix of BA and BB Benzyl Alcohol and Benzyl Benzoate???
Im done fucking around with BS kits and found a place to get most everything separately so I just need to know if the dissolving solution for the carts is a 50/50 mix of this combination or is it mostly BB and just a little BA? Thanks. My experiment didnt go so well and it may have been due to the Kits crappy quality and possibly incorrect dissolving solution as unlike Fina that used to filter just fine through a coffee filter this instead wouldnt pass and just pooled together sitting on top of the coffee filter leaving a shit ton of the glues and binders. and idk about everyone else but i think its best to make 1 cart at a time instead of 2 or more like I tried. just my .2 cents but hopefully someone can shed some light on this and I can get away from the crappy kits out there.

Are you trying to make fina or revalor into fina? Sorry If I'm not understanding here due to your recent questions. Fina is such a simple process bro. I'm not chemically inclined on chems and ratios. So all of my kits have been coming to me from this one site who IMO, would have never known of them unless I got a private invite(Please don't PM me, I will not give site out)...

Back to topic;


I've made 10 karts at a time; yes it's more of a pain on the ass to do and overall percentage of potency per cc, diminishes more. It's all in preference IMO on how much people want to make.

Fina is super simple;

crush pellets, dump into solution to dissolve for about 48hrs, then add all oil from kit except 3cc's....let sit for 3-4 days for gunk to drop....pull oil without disturbing the gunk....and last but not least(this is a mother fucker)...filter the gunk; YES I SAID THAT:D But I'm not losing tren in the process:D

Now after all that has been filtered into new bottle, I don't bake, boil water, etc....I use a shit load of filters.

Converting finaplix into Crystal Tren

this seems spot on!
something missing from Ronins post that included the pics from the kit he ordered was what to do after you have the fina powder. What do you do once you have the powder? Simply add the powder and oil together and filter>? that just doesnt seem right to me. Its like you would need to mix the final powder and magic solution of BA and BB together and filter THEN add to OIL and possibly filter again? those .pdf documents arent the best guides for this it seems and leaves out some important questions/steps to be followed because I followed those .pdf pictures perfectly and still wasted two carts worth which really pissed me off. I did the fridge method and everything. it was almost as if I needed more of the dissolving solution than what came with my 4g R kit
I figured out that the kit came with either 8 or 10ml of "magic solution" with 5% BA and 95% BB ratio so that will help me piece together my own damn kit.

Bro...It's not fucking hard; seriously. However, I did post and have said numerous times. MOST newbies and even people who have done conversions are going to fuck up quite a few times; typically always the first. It sucks and I've been there done that. But those pics, my instructions, etc..Is how it's done.

If you can't figure it out, then don't know what to tell you. Not trying to be an ass by most either. From your PM's and who you get your KITS from. I already told you my opinion on them. The other ones you also talked about Columbus Ohio, I know them personally (and ordered from them for over 3yrs, but since have changed kit supplier). I somehow honestly got lucky with my current provider.

[STSZ06vette]

Converting finaplix into Crystal Tren

this seems spot on!
something missing from Ronins post that included the pics from the kit he ordered was what to do after you have the fina powder. What do you do once you have the powder? Simply add the powder and oil together and filter>? that just doesnt seem right to me. Its like you would need to mix the final powder and magic solution of BA and BB together and filter THEN add to OIL and possibly filter again? those .pdf documents arent the best guides for this it seems and leaves out some important questions/steps to be followed because I followed those .pdf pictures perfectly and still wasted two carts worth which really pissed me off. I did the fridge method and everything. it was almost as if I needed more of the dissolving solution than what came with my 4g R kit
I figured out that the kit came with either 8 or 10ml of "magic solution" with 5% BA and 95% BB ratio so that will help me piece together my own damn kit.

[STSZ06vette]

Anyone know if the dissolving solution is a mix of BA and BB Benzyl Alcohol and Benzyl Benzoate???
Im done fucking around with BS kits and found a place to get most everything separately so I just need to know if the dissolving solution for the carts is a 50/50 mix of this combination or is it mostly BB and just a little BA? Thanks. My experiment didnt go so well and it may have been due to the Kits crappy quality and possibly incorrect dissolving solution as unlike Fina that used to filter just fine through a coffee filter this instead wouldnt pass and just pooled together sitting on top of the coffee filter leaving a shit ton of the glues and binders. and idk about everyone else but i think its best to make 1 cart at a time instead of 2 or more like I tried. just my .2 cents but hopefully someone can shed some light on this and I can get away from the crappy kits out there.

[rado]

ok my apologies on that friend. on a different note Back in 1997 or so. people were crushing the pellets up (synovex) and putting in ice trays in a freezer with diethyl ether. after freezing. supposedly the estrogen would be at top as a yellow substance. Would be interesting to try.

No worries.

But go ahead and do the freezer stuff and get back to me on that one lol...The shit people try to make a simple product is fucking amazing.

[fleabag711]

ok my apologies on that friend. on a different note Back in 1997 or so. people were crushing the pellets up (synovex) and putting in ice trays in a freezer with diethyl ether. after freezing. supposedly the estrogen would be at top as a yellow substance. Would be interesting to try.

[rado]

Sorry, not to sound rude, but if you have been doing syno conversions for 8 years and think that-- heet- and naoh aka estrosolubolizer are the same- than you have apparently didn't research conversion much. Heet does not strip the ester. You merely add everything to the heet and when you add water dropwise- the most abundant chemical will crystallize first and since theirs more prop or more tren that anything else... It crystallizes first. THan you do this many more times etc. Heet is safe also, probably moreso than naoh.

I don't use HEET, never have never will. I'm perfectly fine using the kits I've been getting for years and my stuff comes out pretty and well dosed.

What I was trying to convey to some newbies here is that it's the wording on some of these kit sites that throws people off. I never said they're all the same because I know they're not.

But thanks for pointing out what I've already posted on the conversion.

I'm no chem wizard and I could care less. My stuff comes out clean, dosed wonderfully and no issues in 8 plus years.

[fleabag711]

The kits I order come with and Estro remover and I do not know exactly what the chemicals are, but I do trust them enough to know they are legit. Mavs is good, but what you need to understand here with all these kit companies; is the verbage.

Estro remover

Estro stabilizer

NaOH

HEET

They all practically do the same and IMO, it's a matter of preference on what you want. I am not CHEMICALLY inclined so if someone throws at me chem shit, I am going to be a :retard::retard: at responding, sorry. I think people are making this more complicated than it is.

It's NOT THAT hard. You strip the estro and you have your product. Now how you strip it? Well we have several ways of doing it. But if you think about it, same damn chemical at the end of the day Thoughts? /\

If you can somehow process my thread, you will be fine. I've been making fina into tren and syno into prop for 8yrs now and I've made quite a bit in my time, and now revalor 200.

Sorry, not to sound rude, but if you have been doing syno conversions for 8 years and think that-- heet- and naoh aka estrosolubolizer are the same- than you have apparently didn't research conversion much. Heet does not strip the ester. You merely add everything to the heet and when you add water dropwise- the most abundant chemical will crystallize first and since theirs more prop or more tren that anything else... It crystallizes first. THan you do this many more times etc. Heet is safe also, probably moreso than naoh.